Known as the centre of the cult of Isis, Philae has been a popular tourist destination for centuries. Today, however, the actual island of Philae is completely submerged under the waters of Lake Nasser, but the monuments survived.
Preservation of the Temple
When the British built the old Aswan Dam on the Nile River at the turn of the 19th century, the temples on Philae were flooded by the high waters of the reservoir for almost half of each year. Tourists wanting to catch glimpses of the monuments during these months would row out to the temple tops and colonnades half-submerged under water. The colors of the reliefs on the temples’ walls and ceilings were washed away during this period.
By the time the High Dam was built in the 1960s, the monuments needed to be transferred to a new location or be lost under the waters forever. An international rescue operation was launched by UNESCO that involved the dismantling of the monuments on Philae, comprising almost 50,000 blocks, and reassembling the temple complex on the nearby island of Agilkia, arranging it as close as possible to the original layout. The project took four years to complete and remains today.
History of the Temple at Philae
The main temple at Philae was dedicated to Isis (goddess of motherhood and fertility), but her husband Osiris (lord of the underworld) and her son Horus (god of the sky) were also worshiped there.
While the worship of Isis at Philae dates back to the 7th century BCE, the earliest preserved structure is the Hall of Nectanebo, which dates back to the 4th century BCE. Most of the remaining monuments were erected during the reign of Ptolemy II Philadephus and extended over the 500 years leading up to the reign of Diocletian (284-305CE).
When the closure of all temples had been ordered by Roman Emperor Theodosius in AD384, making Christianity the official state religion, one remained—the temple of Isis at Philae. Powerful enough to challenge early Christianity for religious supremacy, Philae remained the centre for a cult of Isis until the 6th century, when Emperor Justinian closed it down once and for all.
Early Christians built churches, defaced the pagan reliefs, and transformed the main temple’s hypostyle hall into a chapel. Following in the Christians footsteps, early Muslims vandalised Christian inscriptions.
The Isis Temple Complex
Passing the Hall of Nectanebo from the boat landing en route to the main complex, one passes through the east and west colonnades of the outer court into an inner court, which is bookended by massive pylons covered in reliefs of Isis and Horus, as well as Ptolemy XII Neos Dionysos slashing his enemies.
Located in this central court is the mammisi or birth house, which is a small chapel, dedicated to Horus, where the god Horus is said to have been born and raised. The pharaoh would celebrate the birth of the god and partake in rituals as a means of ensuring his ascendency.
The gateway through the second pylon leads to a large hypostyle hall with ten decorative columns. Beyond the hall are three antechambers with rooms set off them, then the inner sanctuary, which consists of a small chamber with two tiny windows. Inside remains the pedestal where a gold statue of the goddess Isis would have once stood, housed in a granite shrine which now sits in the British Museum. Throughout all the rooms of the temple, the walls are covered by magnificent reliefs in a remarkable state of preservation.
East of the temple of Isis, sits a small but delightful temple dedicated to Hathor, the Egyptian goddess of love, music, and dance. The temple is decorated with beautiful reliefs of musicians playing for the gods.
There are a number of other gateways and temples housed on the island, built during the roman period, including the Temple of Augustus, the Gate of Diocletian, and the Kiosk of Trajan.
Getting to Philae (Agilkia Island)
The only way to reach Philae is from the boat landing in Shellal, which is just south of the old Aswan Dam. Most tourists opt for an organised trip, but others reach Shellal by taxi. Boats go to and from the Island all day and in the evening, as there is an evening sound-and-light show. The cost of the boat ride varies, despite an “official” price.
Sources:
- Ancient Egypt Online
- Lonely Planet Egypt, 8th Edition
- Mythology: The Illustrated anthology of World Myth and Storytelling. General Editor C. Scott Littleton
- UNESCO
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